Hidden neckband -
Step by step description
Here is a description in pictures of how you can go about getting that professional finish inside the garment's neckline.
This can be done where you use a neckband in the neckline, either in tricot or cuff fabric.
Feel free to use waste fabrics for the strap that you are going to use.
You can advantageously use the borderprint edge of the fabric you sew the garment in, for a special detail.
- BorderPrint fabric or optional knitwear
- Limpenna - One enormously flexible sewing accessories! If you do not have a glue stick, you can use needles. But I recommend buying you a lime pencil.
- Cloth clips or needles
- Sewing machine - Alternatively also overlock
In this description, we will use a fabric from Ziccafabric's sample collection for spring 2021.
I sew on an overlock with a 1 cm wide seam allowance.
Cut out all your pattern parts for the garment you are going to sew.
Measure the length of the neck on the back piece. From shoulder to shoulder.
As you can see in the picture here.
Take out your border print and cut out a 3-4 cm wide ribbon.
The length we use we got when we measured earlier. In my case 20cm. Make sure you get the text you want to display in the middle of the tape.
Twidow! Make sure you cut 1 cm above the text you want to see in the neck.
Here we have everything ready to sew our hidden neckband. The sweater is now sewn together!
Prepare your neckband according to the pattern's instructions and sew it together.
We have now sewn our neckband together.
Take now and divide it into 4 equal parts.
You do the same with the neckline. I like to cut a small jack in the middle of the front and in the middle of the back and front piece.
Place the neckband on the neckline (straight to straight) so that the four markings meet.
Now you have two options!
You sew the neckband first and then sew the borderprint ribbon afterwards.
Advantage - This option can be good when you are unsure about including all four layers of fabric. You can also control more over where the text will be placed
Disadvantage - There may be some visible seam from what you sewed together earlier. Applies to sewing all over the old seam allowance.
Tips! Only stretch the neckband when sewing and not the garment itself
You're pinching or pinning the borderprint ribbon right now and sew together all layers at once.
Advantage - The end result does not risk getting any visible seams / threads at all.
Disadvantage - You may not get the text exactly as you want or miss to include all parts.
We sew according to Alternative 1
When we sewed the neckband there. If you take the borderprint ribbon and place it right sides together on the back of the neckband (shoulder seam to shoulder seam), the text on the ribbon is now upside down. Make sure your text is just below the previous seam on the neckband.
Now you carefully sew the ribbon there.
Feel free to start a little bit in front of the band. Do not stretch the ribbon when sewing it. Make sure you sew over the entire old seam. Attach the overlock ends. I usually make a small knot and cut off the top.
Now that it is attached, it is time to take out the glue pen.
Glue with the pen along the seam allowance and then fold over the ribbon so that the text is neat. Then glue the other side of the seam allowance and fold over the fabric with it.
Now it looks like this and it's time to cut off excess fabric.
Note! Make sure you do not accidentally cut the fabric of the sweater when doing this.
Fold down the seam allowance so that it lies flat and neat along the neckline.
Now we will sew it with elastic straight stitch on the sewing machine.
Sew a few mm from the edge, Here it is good if you take it slowly and carefully
Follow the natural arc that forms and do not stretch the neck when sewing.
Do not forget to attach the thread at the beginning and end.
The end result looks like this!
Hope you enjoyed this step by step description and that you were satisfied with your hidden neckband. Remember that practice makes perfect!
From us to you! 🤗
Kristin Tapper - Instagram: kikkis.syhorna
Jessica Elisabeth Norling - www.ziccafabrics.com